eddy Wanger
For those who are interested in experiencing the majesty of the Dolomiti, I recommend the book “ Walking in the Dolomites “ by Gillian Price. Once you have found an area that interests you, try to get the TABACCO 1:25000 map ( www.tabaccoeditrice.com ) of the area for detailing planning, along with the book. The book provides very accurate descriptions and very concise schematics of the routes, but it does not have all the details needed to plan and navigate.
As a first timer, I picked the relatively popular Tre Cime circuit as my main objective. I decided to avoid the crowds and went in mid June when the first series of rifugios opened. Note that not all rifugios open at the same time. Call ahead and put a name down for a spot, as the locations of the opening rifugios will affect your plan.
I decided to use Cortina as my hub to visit the surrounding area as it has a few interesting routes in the vicinity. Cortina is a big resort town and has all the services and hotels. To get to Cortina from inside Italy, I used Venice as my jumping spot. There are regular bus services from Venice to Cortina. The bus company I used is Cortina Express (http://www.cortinaexpress.it ) They run buses from the Marco Polo airport as well as the Venice Mestre station.
I have 6 days in total, including 2 travel days. Here is what I recommend. Note that the time budget is based on my time.
Day 1:
Take Cortina Express but from Venice to Cortina ( 27 euros ). Sleep overnight at Cortina.
Day 2: ( with 30lb pack )
Take Cortina Express bus to Dobbacio, and get off at Lago Di Landro ( 30 minute ride, 2.5 euros). Take route 102 and then 101 to Rif. Zsigmondy-Comici for overnight stay ( 6 hours of walk in total )
Day 3:
Get off the route at Hotel Dolmitenhof through route 103. ( 2.5 hours ) Take the Hofel bus from the hotel to Salto ( 1.5 euros ) From Salto, take the bus to Dobbaico. From Dobbaico, take the bus back to Cortina ( 5 euros ). Arrive at Cortina in the early afternoon. Drink beer.
[Alternative]Follow 103 to Giralba ( 4 hours ) and take the Dolomiti bus back to Cortina – BUT the dolomiti bus only travels in the direction of Cortina in the morning and stops at Giralba at 930ish! )
Day 4: ( with a 5 lb small pack):
Take the Cortina Express bus from Cortina to Passo Falzarego at 0840 ( 3.5 euros). Follow 402 and divert to the Ferr Galleria ( staircase in tunnel ) in the direction of Lagazuoi sign ( 2 hours ) Follow 401 and then 402 to the intersection at the foot of Tofana De Rozes ( 1 hour – shuffling and quick walk) and go north on 404 ( 45 min. ). Favor east to take 403 and then the short cut of Scala d Minighel, and reconnect with 403 up at the mountain pass to reach Rif. Giussani ( 1 hour 15 min. ) Follow 403 southbound and then 412 west bound to hit bus stop next to the big house on hwy 48 before 1800( 2 hours). Take the bus back to Cortina. ( 7 hours of walk in total ).
Day 5: Get up late, get a biking map from the information center, rent a bike and take advantage of the local biking trails. Drink beer.
Day 6: Leave Cortina for Venice
Weather:
Mid June in the Dolomite was not always sunny. It was usually foggy in the morning, sunshine at noon, and cloudy in the afternoon. There was be a bit of drizzling in the morning and in the afternoon, sometimes it just rained. In the mountains, there could be a sudden blizzard with fast temperature drop and wind chill. Prepare for 0 to 16 deg. C., bring a gortex jacket, gloves, a toque and an insulated jacket in case.
Budget:
After food and drinks, budget 60 euros per person to have a bed in the rifugio per night without a mountain club membership. During the shoulder season, hotel rooms in Cortina are quite reasonably priced, for as low as 60 euros a night in a decent hotel with breakfast included. Food is not expensive either, compared to the city. A meal with first and second dishes, along with a drink, could be had under 30 euros. If diet is limited to pizzas and one drink, it could be done under 15 euros.