Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Lake Trekking in Nepal: Day 12 and 13

Day 12

The hike to Lobuche took about 2 and a half hours.  The triail took us to the y intersection at Thukla  which  connected us to the classic trail of Everest Base Camp. There were some interesting landscapes as  we walked along the glacier bed.  Overall, it was a “travel” day, not much to write about.

 Day13

Today we headed to Gorak Shep from Lobuche. The trail cut across the old glacier bed which took us to Gorake Shep in just  3 hours . We arrived at Gorak Shep before lunch time with lots of energy to spare. 

 

On the way to Gorak Shep

Gorake shep was a pretty big tea house cluster.  Being the focal point of the EBC trek, there were hordes of people around all the time. It was also intentionally established at the shortest distance to Kala Pathar, so practically people could crawl out of their beds and run towards the trail.     Some tour operators choose to hit Kala Pathar at lunch time, while some prefer to go in the morning. 

From Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp

Our guide figured it was better to go to the base camp after lunch and do Kala Pathar next day in the morning. Personally I think it made sense because people generally do not like climbing up a steep hill after 3 hours of hike.   

The walk to Eversest Base Camp was only an hour and a half.  Since the base camp is established on a  flat patch in the middle of a glacier, the trail basically runs along the ridge line on the side of the glacer,  until it reaches the base camp.  The trail was rocky and interesting to walk on.  It also  offered many scenice views of the different features of a glacer. 

Glacier Pond near Everest Base Camp

To be honest, the base camp itself was not that impressive if you expect impressive sceneries.  Most of the moutains were covered by clouds anyways. Most people were more interested in posing in front of that big piece of rock with the inscription ” Everest Base Camp”. In my opinion, the walk to the base camp itself was more interesting than the base camp itself.

Just outside of the Everest Base Camp

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Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Lake Trekking in Nepal: Day 10 and 11

Day 10

The hike from Gokyo to Dangnag was merely a 2 hour slow walk to the other side of the glacier.

The glacier crossing was quite interesting. It was like running across multiple industrial stone quarries. What a perfect walk until a group of retarded British started making noises and tossing rocks into the ponds.  At least the Japanese just took pictures, wore ugly clothing and moved on.   

Glacier crossing

Glacier crossing

 The stop at Dangnag was a bit dumb because it would only take 5 hours (officially) to go from Dangnag to Dzong Lha ( 3 hours to walk up Cho La Pass, 2 hours to walk down to Dzong La).  If you are doing it on your own or your group is in decent shape, there is no point of stopping at Dangnag at all.  If you have a mixed bag of abilities, it pays to play safe to stop at Dangnag and get bored.

Just outside of Thangna

Just outside of Thangna

What a boring day of sitting my ass all day long inside the teahouse. 

 

Day 11

The hike through Chola Pass started at 0530 in the morning. The guide budgeted 4 hours to Chola Pass but in reality most people I met did it in 3 hours. Anyways, my group ended up taking 5 hours. So it has a lot to do with individual ability. 

The sun just came out on the way to Cho La Pass

The sun just came out on the way to Cho La Pass

The morning could be quite cold as the sun was blocked by mountains on the east side. At one point, I had to break out my neck gator while I was waiting for my group to catch up. At the highest spot across Chola Pass, it could be close to -15 deg C with wind chill effect.  The best way to stay warm was to keep walking.  Without windchill, the temperature was easily around -5 deg C.  

At Cho La Pass

At Cho La Pass

This hike was the most physical demanding of the trip due to the height and steepness of the pass. To make it more fun, the trail went up 400 m, dropped another 200m before it went back up by another 400m before it reached the pass. So in total one has to climb close to 800m to make 600m gain in height. The last 200m was steep and it required a bit of scrambling.

Short walk over the snow field at Cho La Pass

Short walk over the snow field at Cho La Pass

After we reached Cho La Pass, everything was easy. We had to walk across a snow field to reach the other side of the pass to make the descend to Thangna.  Since there had been so many people waking this trail, the trail was packed down already so there was not really a need to use snowshoes or ski.   

Down to Dzong Lha

Down to Dzong Lha

Learning from the Gokyo Peak hike, I ditched my leggings and wore only a pair of brief under gortex pants. For the upper body, I  wore a softshell and a light weight long sleeve shirt.  This turned out to be a good combination as I was more efficient without overheating once the sun came up.  On the other hand, my group was very slow and I had to wait for them for as much as an hour in some places.  It got cold once the legs were not moving. Always bring an insulated jacket for these stops!

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